Day 1 in Athens

My host was standing on the front porch of Apartment 8 on Kosta Tsiklitra Street in Athens.

“Are you Tom?” he said.

As we shook hands, my thoughts raced through the last twenty-six hours. My journey started with rolling out of bed in Annandale, Virginia, and it’s ending with me standing in Athens, Greece. Teleportation 2024 style!

 “Yes, I’m Tom. Thanks for meeting me, Theo. It’s my first time in Athens, and these narrow streets are a twisty maze. How did we find things before Google maps?”

Theo spread his arms wide, as if claiming the entire street for his own. “Yes, yes, they are like a maze. But you will adjust quickly. Welcome to Athens!”

Entering the apartment, we walked across a small porch built of grey and white marble. On my walk from the Metro, I noticed marble used everywhere, and in generous quantities.

The ground-floor apartment was minimalist and tidy, much like my Airbnb in Florence. Its freshly swept tile floors and compact kitchen and bathroom beamed efficiency.

In the bedroom, a large, three-way patio door dominated the outer wall. The door locked, tilted at the bottom, or swung wide, opening to an alcove created by the apartments next door and above. Although the alcove was small, it was open to the sky and held a lounger and clothes drying rack. The living room featured a couch, entertainment center, and side chair. My first home was like this: efficient, cottage-like, perfect.

“I saw a couple pushing a baby stroller on my walk from the Metro,” I said. “That seems a good sign. Is it safe around here?” Without hesitation, Theo said. “Yes, very safe. You will find people friendly, too.”

Leading me back to the front door, Theo said. “Now that you’ve seen the apartment, let me show you the neighborhood, show you where things are. The sooner you learn your way around, the more you will enjoy Athens.”

“I always feel a bit off balance in a new country. There’s navigating the airport, customs, finding ground transportation, bridging the language gap. It’s daunting.” I said in a weary tone.

Theo nodded knowingly. “First, I’ll show you our little park. It’s right next door and one of my grandmother’s favorite spots. There is an oval track where you can walk or run, and outdoor exercise equipment. The park also has excellent views of the city.”

We walked side by side down a narrow pedestrian street named Agras. The wind picked up and occasional puffs shook the palm fronds as we passed by, and Theo continued. “The park is part of the Panathenaic Stadium. No one knows with certainty when the ancient Olympic games ended, but in the 1890s Greece built this stadium and the modern Olympics began. It’s quite spectacular in the daytime.”

At the end of Agras Street, Theo stopped in front of a restaurant called Humain Athens. “This is your first visit to Athens. Do you enjoy food, local cuisine?” With eyebrows lifted, I said. “Who doesn’t?” And Theo said. “You will find meals in Athens delicious. I was in Toronto last week and everything tasted blah; like it’s made in some factory. Experiencing fresh ingredients and hand prepared meals is something that awaits you in Greece. I promise you will enjoy meals here.”

As we turned the corner, we stopped at a big green gate with a small pedestrian door. Finding both doors locked, Theo turned to me and said with dismay. “I don’t know why the park is closed. I’ve never seen this gate locked before. You should visit tomorrow. It’s very nice.”

Walking down Empedokleous street, Theo pointed out Colibri’s, Oliver Nuts, and OK Market. Sweeping the air with his right arm, Theo said. “This area has plentiful shops, cafes, and restaurants. The OK Market is good for staples, but for produce, wait for Friday. They close an entire street nearby, and it becomes a farmers’ market. You can stock up on fresh vegetables, fruit, and all kinds of goods made locally.”

We turned down Proklua street; and I noticed the sidewalk was covered in ceramic tile. It seems all the sidewalks here are. When the light hits them just right, they look wet and slippery. I’d been testing them occasionally since leaving the Metro, and found their icy look an illusion, a fact my mind needs to accept.

Theo pointed to a building across the street. “This is Varnava Pharmacy. If you need medications, come here. They have good prices, and many things don’t require a prescription. So much different from the states.”

A compact car and rumbly motorcycle passed by. Then the street was quiet again. Looking up, I noticed the sky was turning grey and could feel evening approaching. “Theo,” I said. “You mentioned everyone’s friendly here. Should I look out for anything?” Theo smiled in amusement. “If you ask a question in Greek, don’t be surprised if people reply in English. Your accent gives you away, and many here welcome a chance to practice their English. You will be fine.”

Continuing down Proklou street, Theo pointed out Paliaki’s Butcher Shop. “Do you like beef and fish? This butcher shop is the best around.”

Somewhere along the way, the light breeze disappeared, and a slow drizzle took its place. I followed Theo as he wove through a chain of parked cars and scooters, then crossed over to Eratosthenous street. I imagined our walk down the narrow streets and a map came to mind. A jumble of dots and squiggles, but a map just the same. Then again, it was more like a three-dimensional game of connect the dots. I’ll never find my way around.

Looking ahead, I recognized the big, green storefront of Apmakeio Zannakh, a pharmacy I’d passed on my walk from the Metro to the apartment. Pleased, I turned to Theo and said. “We’re almost at the apartment, aren’t we?” Theo grinned as I led the way up Kosta Tsiklitira to the front door of my home for the next forty days. “Like I said, Tom, you will be fine.”

As we stood on the marble porch, drizzle accumulated and slipped in giant drops from the edge of the awning above. The street looked strangely alone; its tiled sidewalks glistened yet offered sure footing. Even the rows of palms stood silent, cloaked in vivid green, tan, and brown. Everything was magical, just begging for a brave soul to come and explore.

“Your timing is perfect.” Theo began. “Not only did we beat the rain, but you beat the heat of summer. We have suffered this season; it’s been hot for so long. With September nearly gone, it should be mild and pleasant now.”

In a voice just over the growing rain, I asked. “I’m curious. Your English is excellent, and you said you were in Toronto last week. Do you live here in Greece or is your home in Canada?”

“It’s confusing?” Mocked Theo with a sly glance. “My friends in Toronto thought I was crazy to move here. They worried about opportunity and how I’d make a living. But I’m doing ok, and life here is amazing.”

“It’s really my grandmother’s doing. I was born in Greece, but moved to Toronto with my parents when I was two. Growing up, grandmother would save all year long, and then buy a ticket so I could spend summers with her. We would visit my uncles up north, and family here in Athens. I made many friends, and my grandmother taught me the language and about my Greek heritage.”

“Your apartment was my grandmother’s home. She passed, but I know she’s happy visitors come here. She loved Athens and loved sharing it. Call if you need anything. Enjoy!”